As well as being the first biennale since the pandemic, this is the first time the main exhibition has been predominantly devoted to women, trans and non-binary artists. Business as usual, you might say, but there are no trillionaire oligarch yachts moored by the Giardini and there is less razzmatazz all round. W onders and marvels, the beautiful and the terrible, the celebratory and the morbid all fill the 59th Venice Biennale.